Back into the euphor(b)ia

The African milk tree stands as a tall reminder that I’m not in Kansas anymore. I mean, I’m not in Kansas at all. I’m back in South Africa, looking for elephants.

There’s a moment that feels almost electric; a euphorbia tree comes into view and something inside me shifts: a rush of a sense of belonging; an earthy sweetness in the air that smells of dust and possibility; a tingling anticipation of reunion with the magnificent beings we’re here to observe.

The tree is the threshold; the elephants are the reason we cross it.

We venture out that first afternoon to see what we bump into. Not literally, of course. We’re here 5 months after collars were removed from 2 of the matriarchs, so we have to find them the old fashioned way. We’re here 5 months after we field-tested the first version of an elephant ID app that has the potential to fundamentally change the way we identify individuals in the field. We’re here to mesh science with wonder; to bring the future into the field; to follow their footsteps, and to observe and learn.

So that first sighting that first day in the field, on a landscape transformed by recent rains, we spotted a matriarch and her new babies and grand-babies wallowing in the mud. We sat with them as they played and bathed and rumbled the way elephants do. I felt that rumble permeate into my bones as some of the heaviness of the world I left behind lifted.

  • baby elephant making a cute face with its trunk outstretched
  • herd of elephants on a green grassy plain
  • Mother elephant with her trunk resting on her baby's back
  • baby elephant with trunk of its mother
  • matriarch elephant
  • mother elephant with a baby
  • herd of elephants

These animals will never cease to leave me in awe of the natural world.

This is the 4th time I’ve been at Kariega since the spring of 2024, and to be honest, I’m not in love with South Africa as a destination. To me, it feels closed and apportioned and entitled, and I always leave with the feeling that they’ve commoditized the wilderness here.

That said, Kariega feels like an oasis of potential. The reserve is trying to collaborate with its neighbours to connect private reserves into the Bushman’s River Biodiversity Corridor and eventually up to Addo Elephant National Park. But that kind of cooperation requires trust and wildlife management and a look at the problem from the animals’ perspective rather than a consumptive end goal. The result, if it works, is a natural corridor for elephants and other endemic species to roam and thrive and, ultimately, survive.

  • 4 elephants crossing a river with their reflections in the water
  • close up of a large bull elephant
  • baby elephant facing the camera with its trunk up
  • hippo in the water
  • single elephant crossing a river with its reflection in the water
  • zebra facing the camera

Fence removal works. Dr. Brooke Friswold, Africa Manager for Bring The Elephant Home, recently published a paper after researching the results of fence removal at Kariega. Results confirmed what she suspected all along: Removing fences helps elephants and ecosystems thrive:

  • Elephants moved into lower-density, higher-quality habitat after fence removal.
  • No additional vegetation loss occurred where elephants roamed.
  • Locomotion increased and foraging decreased, which was consistent with exploratory behaviour.
  • Social bonding increased by 66%.
  • Aggression decreased by 20%.

The full paper is definitely worth a read.

elephant herd in a field

Now what?

I’m conjuring up another blog post on what I’ve learnt from the herd. Elephants can teach us more about collaboration and empathy and respect than many of our so-called leaders these days. For the few hours I’ve got left as I write this, I’ll direct my thoughts back into the bush and with our herd.

What happens when you drop a fence: 5 observations.

Big news at Kariega Game Reserve! In December of 2023, in association with the Kariega Foundation’s habitat expansion project, BTEH supports the removal of one of the internal fences connecting the Kariega West and Harvestvale areas of the park. A key mission of the project is to give herds on opposite sides of the fence (and river) access to a broader habitat. I mean, who wouldn’t want a larger area in which to play and explore? One of BTEH research objectives is to see, in short, what happens when you remove fences and how that impacts herd behaviour and population health.

I’m reporting from the BTEH elephant research program at Kariega, March 2024. This is the first time BTEH researchers Brooke Friswold (PhD student) and Antoinette van de Water (PhD) have observed the different herds here post-fence removal. It’s an exciting time to be a part of this! [Aside: if you’ve always wondered how to get involved with elephants, are a little nerdy about research stuff, and think the idea of a safari seems a little too much like a canned experience, you’ve got to try this program! 😉]

Here are 5 observations (expected and otherwise) after fence removal:

New places to explore!
Not surprisingly, we’re already seeing herds and individuals that were once confined to the Kariega West area exploring into the Harvestvale section, and vice-versa. Elephant location, movement and interaction are monitored via GIS (geographic information systems) tracking and low range radio collars which were fitted to 6 elephants of varying ages/sexes in August of 2022. Fitting collars is a complicated and costly operation, requiring veterinarians, helicopters and scientists (plus some luck), so it was devastating to learn that more than half of the collars have failed (full collaring report here) due to twisting and malfunction. The elephants are fine, but the science is impacted. Findings during our time here in March will assist with on-the-ground identification, behaviour tracking, and dung sampling (yep!).

You see Brooke tracking Beauty’s herd via a telemetry antenna contraption in the pictures above because a 4th of the 6 radio collars is malfunctioning.

The bulls are a little, erm, randy.
Think of it like spring break: you put a bunch of single college guys in a new environment with a bunch of cute and possibly available chiquitas, what do you get? Well, scientifically, many of the males (bulls) have gone into musth, or a state of pre-musth (though per the science-y folks, this observation is still anecdotal but we found out this week that there are 3 (!!!) bulls in musth right now here at Kariega). In general musth is a stage of the mating cycle when adult or sub-adult bulls experience testosterone levels of 60 times greater than average. This makes them do weird and not-so-weird things like Following sub-adult females (cows), Touching genitals (their own and cows’), placing their “Trunk over back” of desirable cows, chasing zebras, walking around Sniffing the air, wandering far and wide, and generally getting excited for the “new meat” in the vicinity. We’ve observed and logged many of these behaviors in the Zoomonitor app, and we’ll see how this plays out (stay tuned to the BTEH updates page for details).

Amazing social excitement and interaction.
In our first days of observation here, we noticed some of the Kariega West and Harvestvale herds have meshed. Our first morning, we saw the Half Moon herd mix with Beauty’s herd. This of course throws off the ID database, which had neatly arranged individuals by herd by area, and means that our ID work this month will be crucial to not only identifying individual cows and bulls assimilating into different herds, but also tracking the potential new herds that may form as a result (see point 2). Per Antoinette, “It’s amazing to observe elephants that fully have the freedom to explore and interact and make new social connections. This is the best way to see elephants completely in their element.

  • a herd of elephants in Kariega Game Reserve

Some are travellers, some are not.
Kariega’s elephant population is roughly 75 individuals. Elephants are social and highly intelligent: emotionally and mentally. They are said to never forget, and can hold onto traumas just like people. Herds are traditionally led by an old and wise female (I began writing this post on International Women’s Day, so of course they are 😉) So with all the exploring and commingling some of the elephants are doing, one matriarch, Bukele has still not crossed the river from Kariega West to Harvestvale. Whether it is because the way to the other side is around or that the river is saltwater and thus creates a natural fence (elephants love to swim and bathe, but prefer freshwater), this remains to be seen. Camera traps, GIS tracking, and future research trips will help answer these questions…and more.

Happiness is contagious.
During our initial drives, we observed un-stressed, curious, social, and thriving elephants. As with humans, lack of stress reduces cortisol, which leads to overall better health and well-being. Additionally, seeing happy and healthy elephants put a smile on the face of everyone in our vehicle. Per Antoinette, “What we observed yesterday is like the best example of how range expansion contributes to animal well-being.” When elephants are happy, so are the people watching them. Want to learn more?

When I asked Brooke what her biggest surprise was, she commented that it is so exciting to see the different herds socialising and commingling like this. “It remains to be seen,” she said, “whether this is just exploratory because it’s new, if the new commingled herds and interactions will persist, or if they will go back to their original structures in time.”

Interested in getting involved (highly recommend!)? Go here. Now.


A final note… this blog has been cross-posted on the BTEH website (HERE). Please take a look at all the amazing articles they have on their site. The eles will thank you.

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